Monday, May 3, 2010

Gorkhey

The next day as I open my eyes the Phalut Top was a whole cloudy, like all other cloudy mornings. I was not mourning as I knew Im not lucky at all.

The days trail was quite easy compare to last two days. We had our breakfast and set out at 10AM. We walked through the rain forest for around 15 km. It was gradually down, somewhere steep.We walked down the trail through the narrow muddy short routes through the forest at a speed of ~3.1 Km. Best performance so far!

We'he seen so many variety of Rhods, Magnolia and many more we don't know. I have snapped quite a few forest centric scape, closeup of the flowers and the blossoming leaves...I felt engrossed with the forest like did for all other previous occurrences.

We stayed for a break to have breakfast, second round, at a nicely scaped area. Covered with Rhods, and forest at one end and clear blue sky, an awesome view.

We reached to a spot finally where the full landscape of Gorkhey revealed to our eyes. It was so good. We stayed at the top notch, the viewpoint for around an hour or so to apprehend the tranquility of a village surrounded by hills.

Later we came down to the trekker's hut. It was shaped like a sandwich in vertical. We stayed there, had tea with .... flavor and had chapati on snacks. Then we went to a firm house near the river and did a photosession, chat for long hours, weather degraded aroung at 5 and we had to come back. The clouds, dark and light and many more were forming collage in the mountain surrounded residual open sky area. You could easily locate a bull or a horse elsewhere an elephant with tasks with them.
The could makes a rapid traversal changing forms and color. Then it starts raining slowly. We came to our candle-lighted dorm and start seeing the snaps taken the whole day.

People with us said its a haunted kind of house, wooden structure some empty rooms, no electricity and dim lights of candle made it abstruse. We had our dinner at 8 and we two decided to stay upstairs. All empty rooms and just two of us turned up to be thrilling. We three chat for long while when one retired, our Hut's caretaker "Som" joined us with his vast, a-different-world of experience. We discussed about all small things to big serious issues and gathered a little experience on lot of unknown areas. It started raining already, the ice was falling onto the tinned roof creating a typical sound. It was quite a memorable moment while we found falling ice just two feet above my head at the roof and we are chatting in the low candle light with absolute silence in surrounding other than rainfall.We slept at around 1AM.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Phalut

The next morning I wake up early, very early to my respect, possibly it was 4:00 AM. Awakened I was thinking of the scape I saw in the dreams, on loads of travel journals and from people. The picturesque view of Khangchendzonga and the Sleeping Budhha along with Mt Everest....I was thrilled!

I pan my eyes outside, suddenly I come into reality. I was realizing a dark cloud in my dreams. In reality, it was storming, the weather was just cloudy.

I waited till 5:40 AM thinking the weather to be moderate. We went out at around 6 AM to see if its better now. But Alas! unlike other occurrences this time also Kanchenjunga was far from my site - with deep clouds hiding it. We two stayed for about 45 mins zooming the camera, but we just seen some discrete strips of the whole mountain panorama.

At 7:30 we headed to Phalut leaving the highest altitude behind. We had morning tea before we leave. We packed our breakfast for the route.

In next hour we walked on mostly straight ways, some downs were there but no significant upstream. Finally we paused at around 9:50 AM to have our breakfast at a ground like place.

Up to this we walked in the roads, now as we were finished with breakfast and start again we have been taken into a never-seen landscape. It was like some green humps on earth, beautifully covered with red rhododendron and Yaks/Horses roaming here and there, in short it was a picture perfect place one can dream of.

We walked through the uphills and down in bare grass crossing several such humps and finally reached Sabargram at 4.By that time everybody was so tired to go ahead anymore. We had noodles and hot tea mug which revitalize me to go ahead.It was another 8kms to go to reach Phalut.

From Sabargram to Phalut, it was just a battle between the bad weather and some feeble travelers as many of us went weary and fatigued in their legs. Some of us started having issues with high altitude and oxygen depletion. As the storm started, oxygen depletion grows bolder.

At 6 PM, we were still struggling with storm, had to pause as the viewing was impossible for objects grater than two feet. We were firmly depending on the guide to make us finish the journey in a very-low-light and misty-way in which in all probabilities we can distract the routes. Finally at 6:30 we seen some hut like structures in out moisten eyes. Those were trekker's hut our destination!!

We took rest, at-least tried to feel comfortable as temperature was less with heavy rain. On that night we 6 has to stay in the same room, insufficient lodging but we had to accept anyway. Around 12o Clock I felt I have an issue breathing in, it was an unnatural feel, I never felt before. I went up and open up the window of toilet and felt much better. I came back and opened the vents of window to a bit for air circulation, it was very cold but I had to eventually do that to avoid big massacre. Then I slept off.

Again, before I sleep, I prayed once for giving us opportunity to see Kanchenjunga next morning. May not be a sunrise or big exposure but a glimpse at least!
Those who said keeping hope is always a better option ; doesn't hold true always...Im an exception to it!

Sandakphu

We leave early on this day, not so early, maybe 7:40 AM in the morning.We had tea before we leave, thinking we would have our breakfast in the midway.

This was the first day of the trekking. We checked into the 'Singalila National Park' as thats the start of the trek route. After entry, we start to hike.

First 45mins to 1 Hrs seems to be the most challenging. We had to struggle with the backpack against deep breath. The route is more or less straight only except some spikes amidst.

We reached Kaiyankata at around 10 AM. We had our breakfast with noodles and soup. Some had Omlets(?) too. Those who had the 0mlets are the unhappy few!

We were lagging behind the planned schedule. Eventually we needed to keep going faster now, but that was no exception either because keep pace in steep is not quite easy task to do.We keep on lagging.

We reached Kalapokhri at 1:00 PM. As we had to hurry because of the lag time keeping in mind of the next steep trail of 7Kms.We ordered our lunch(noodles/momo/chapati), we keep on grasp them as served per availability.We taken out the biggo plastic sheets as weather deteriorated. A stormy wind was blowing falling the temperature, and rain...not yet.

We left Kalapokhri at 2:00 and determined to cover up to the next stage at minimum possible time.But as far as the legs are concerned, they were a bit not obeying.
But we covered well till BikheyBhanjan at 3:30 PM.

We now start for the most steep hike in the whole route.To Sandakphu, it was 4KMs, we had taken several short, medium and long breaks. Legs were already tired. Most of us keep on have chocolate and dry fruits on regular interval. Resulting we got our stomach filled but energy was one of the absentees there. As the time passes roads get steeper. Backpack seems to be redundant sometimes as I was carrying a not-so-light pack and struggling with its dimensions. Besides the tirings, two of us had taken several short routes. Believe me, they were nonetheless dangerous. Some of them were 90s and we had to climb, without a rope. I would strongly not recommend to ascend like that. I was taking around 15 mins break after such 90 trails. Finally before last 2-3 laps my wife felt sick due to oxygen depletion and needed to be carried by an approaching land rover.I accompanied her, and realized, we almost covered till end.

We reached Sandakphu at around 6 PM. It was cold with stormy winds. I was literally at the topmost altitude of my state, 11930 ft.It was a day!

During the trekking we had intermittent splashes of Rhods, Magnolia. We chose the correct time to come here, as of that time I thought so!! :(

We took dinner at 8:30 and pull the blanket to cover ourselves. Good Night Mountain Mama! We are gonna have a long day tomorrow and also need to wake up early to see the first ray of hope in sleeping budhha! Again I have no idea whats gonna mess up next morning.

Start

We have started on the second week of April(9-16) considering the Rhododendron will be on full bloom. We thought the weather to be clear and less cloud to have a good view of the Singalila Range.

We started from NJP on 10th Morning heading to Maneybhanjan. It was 9:50 AM we started for Maneybhanjan. We took the route of Mirik forcibly for some unknown reason Im still finding.

It was around 1:30 we reached Maneybhanjan. We had our lunch there at Masterji's place and plan for the trail. We finally took two porters, and a guide we were contacting for long - Budhha.

We refreshed and filled at around 2:30 PM and headed towards Gairibas as the next stop and start of our journey through Singalila National Forest.

We reached Gairibas at 5:15 PM and stayed at the trekkers hut. Trekkers Hut are normally dorms for staying overnight.You can have food additionally, but that would be the basic and staple foods. It Works!!!

We took sleep early keep an eye on the long next days trail. We had no idea what we are gonna face next day - a vast, steep, tough trail for the beginner

Friday, April 30, 2010

Prologue

Its been so long since I was thinking to do something else than my daily routine job. Since we are back from the 3rd north bengal tour twice last yr in a row, we were in deep thoughts if can try something hard this time. Maybe a "Trek" is the easiest solution.As mentioned by Budhha - our guide, who take us through a nice experience of walking ~70 Kms in 4 days in some "never-seen" landscapes - "Those who takes Rickshaw for going 200 meters, can cosider crossing Sandakphu-Phalut Trek as Achievement in completion.".

Indeed, the trekking tour was a splash of cold wind in our AC Vented hearts. A chill shaken the conscience.